The world of leather has its own specialized vocabulary that has evolved over centuries of craftsmanship. Understanding these terms is essential for appreciating the quality, characteristics, and craftsmanship of leather products. Below, we've compiled a comprehensive glossary of leather terminology to help you navigate the fascinating world of leather.
The highest quality leather that includes the entire grain surface with all natural markings. It has not been sanded, buffed, or snuffed to remove imperfections. Full-grain leather develops a beautiful patina over time and is the most durable type.
The second highest quality, created by sanding away the top layer of the hide to remove imperfections. This process makes the leather thinner and more pliable than full-grain, but reduces its strength and ability to develop patina.
Leather that has had its surface artificially processed to remove flaws. The surface is then embossed with an artificial grain pattern and treated with stains or dyes to provide an even coloration.
The layer of hide that remains after the top-grain has been separated. Split leather is less durable than top-grain but can be used for suede production or embossed to mimic higher quality leathers.
Made from the inner splits of a hide, with a napped finish created by abrading the surface. Suede has a velvety, napped finish but is less durable than full-grain or top-grain leather.
Top-grain leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side to create a velvety surface. It's more durable than suede but still susceptible to staining and requires special care.
Made from leather scraps and fibers mixed with adhesives and pressed into sheets. The lowest quality "real" leather, with only 10-20% actual leather content.
A traditional process using tannins from plant materials like tree bark and leaves. Creates firm, durable leather that develops patina. Environmentally friendlier than chrome tanning but takes longer (weeks to months).
A modern method using chromium salts that can be completed in a day. Produces soft, pliable leather that's water-resistant but doesn't develop the same patina as vegetable-tanned leather.
Uses both vegetable and chrome tanning processes to achieve specific characteristics, combining the advantages of both methods.
Uses glutaraldehyde or oxazolidine compounds to create washable, extremely soft leather often used for chamois and garments.
A traditional method used by indigenous peoples, using the emulsifying oils from animal brains to create exceptionally soft, supple leather.
The rich character and luster that develops in quality leather over time with use and exposure to the elements. Highly desirable in fine leather goods.
The tactile qualities of leather—how it feels to the touch in terms of softness, firmness, smoothness, and drape.
The degree of softness or firmness in leather, determined by the amount of oils and waxes used in the tanning and finishing processes.
An effect in certain waxed or oiled leathers where the color becomes lighter when the leather is bent or stretched, and returns to the original color when relaxed.
The natural pattern visible on the surface of leather, unique to the animal it came from, similar to a human fingerprint.
The art of creating decorative designs in leather by working the surface with special tools while the leather is damp. Primarily used on vegetable-tanned leather.
Impressing designs into leather using metal stamps and a mallet. Can be done by hand or with machinery for consistent, repeated patterns.
The process of thinning or beveling the edges of leather pieces to reduce bulk at seams or create specific edge finishes.
A finishing technique that polishes the edge of leather by creating friction with a tool, resulting in a smooth, sealed edge.
A hand-sewing technique where each stitch is locked in place, making it stronger than machine stitching. If one stitch breaks, the entire seam won't unravel.
The most common leather source, known for durability and versatility. Different parts of the hide have different characteristics, with the bend (across the back) being the firmest and most valuable.
Leather from young cattle, prized for its exceptionally fine grain, soft texture, and smooth finish. Used for luxury goods and fine bookbinding.
Characterized by its softness and pliability. Often used with the wool intact for products like slippers and jackets. Without wool, it's used for garments, gloves, and book covers.
Strong despite its thinness, with a distinctive grain pattern. Traditionally used for bookbinding and now popular for garments and gloves.
Exceptionally soft and pliable with excellent tensile strength. Used for gloves, moccasins, and garments.
Characterized by a distinctive grain pattern and exceptional strength. Used for rugged items like work gloves, boots, and furniture.